Denmark - The Land of Hygge

(Para versão em Português mudar o idioma na caixa no canto superior direito de EN para PT se estiveres num PC. No telemóvel clica no símbolo com as 3 barras horizontais no canto superior direito e depois muda de EN para PT na caixa no topo da página)

Facts

• 📌Kingdom of Denmark

• 🗺️Area: 43.094 km2

• 🧑‍🤝‍🧑Population: 5.935.619

• 🚩Capital: Copenhagen

• 📖Official Language: Danish

• 🏔️Highest elevation: 170.86 m (Møllehøj)

• 🪙Currency: Danish krone

  
  

Sardine Route in Denmark

• Time: 14 days*

  First 7 days were in Copenhagen but I was working so only counts half-days. I would suggest 4 full days to enjoy the hygge in Copenhagen

• Places visited: Copenhagen, Dragør, Odense, Vejle, Billund and Aarhus

• Transportation: Public transportation (that is amazing in Denmark)

• Month: September | Weather:🌤️🌦️ | Temperature: from 18ºC to 26ºC

Once upon a time in the kingdom of Denmark, your sardine went to feel the hygge:

Day 0: Lisbon - Copenhagen

In 03h and 40m we arrived to Copenhagen. The flight was early and at noon we were already stepping in Copenhagen.

Going from the airport to the city center couldn't be easier. Both metro, train and bus are at the airport (really...inside the airport) and are easy to navigate. Since I stayed for a full week in Copenhagen and I was working, I bought a travel pass. If you will visit full time Copenhagen, I would advise for you to check the "Copenhagen Card" that has included both transportation and entrance in several attractions.

Tip💡If you want to acquire single tickets for transportation, download the "DOT Billetter"App where you have your tickets and buy new ones if needed using your phone.

With a travel card you do not need to worry with nothing, just enter the transportation and enjoy the ride! Actually you really don't have to worry, the public transportation network in Denmark is really amazing when comparing to Lisbon and Portugal in general.

Leave your bags and go and enjoy your first meal in Denmark! As a portuguese person, saying food is life is a statement and in Denmark we got really impressed by food!

🍴We had lunch at Spiseriet Teglholmen in Sydhavnen area. A lunch near the water where I got my first Smørrebrød and could enjoy some sun (and water for the brave ones).

Smørrebrød at Spiseriet Teglholmen

Then we went to the famous Tivoli Gardens!

Tivoli is located right in front of Copenhagen Central Station - easy to reach from all parts of the city. The entrance ticket was 180 dkk (just the entrance in the park without the rides). If you really want to enjoy the rides then go for the ticket where the rides are included since they are expensive to buy separately.

It opened in 1843 (yes...1843...) and among the guests there was Hans Christian Andersen, who was inspired to write the "Nightingale". Tivoli is the third-oldest operating amusement park in the world and...as said was an inspiration for Walt Disney to create Disneyland.

Tivoli in Danish means amesument park.

Tip💡pay attention to the dates you are travelling - Tivoli is not open all year around. Also pay attention to discounts - if you have the Copenhagen Card the ticket is included. Also, there are some hotels that offer discounts.

 Tivoli Gardens - September 2024

Day 1: Copenhagen

This was a full work day - so the only advise I can give to you are restaurants (yes...I am Portuguese so you know...food is important).

🍴We had dinner at an Arabic Restaurant "Ahaaa Authentic Cousine" and it was amazing! For 1 hour we travelled from Denmark to Middle East. Fully recommended!

Day 2: Copenhagen

In the afternoon we headed to Christiania, also known as freetown Christiania. Christiania is located at the Christianshavn neighbourhood and started in a military base. Christiania is special for several reasons and it is the home of a lot of people, so there are special rules like when we are visiting someone else's house. Visit, enjoy and respect Christiania people and their rules.

Tip💡for 50 dkk you can have a guided visit in Christiania with a local - buy it there in cash!

Church of Our Saviour seen from Christiania

Before leaving Christiania we visited the Church of Our Saviour and walked until Nyhavn and Copenhagen's downtown. Best advise: along the way enjoy the city and feel the hygge - choose a place, sit and enjoy the moment.

Somewhere between Christiania and Nyhavn - Enjoying the Hygge

Nyhavn is probably the most known post-card of Copenhagen. And yes, it is beautiful. Go along the harbour for a walk. I would not advise you to eat here since it is a very, very, very ...(have I said very enough?) touristic area. This part of the city was created in 1671 part of the plan of expansion of Copenhagen. The new harbour, which is an artificial canal, was constructed under King Christian V who employed Swedish war prisioners.

When visiting Nyhavn take a look to the historic brightly colored 17th-18th century houses. Some have been the home to famous people like Hans Christian Andersen (who lived at #67) and artist H G F Holm (who lived at #55). The oldest house built in 1681 is at #9.

Nyhavn at Sunset

Following the Nyhavn harbour to the city center you will end up in Kongens Nytorv where you can find the Royal Theater. You can continue the visit in Copenhagen's Downtown following the Strøget street (a main shopping street).

A detail in Strøget street

🍴For dinner this time we went for Indian Cousine and we had dinner at Sholay in Sydhavnen area. Super calm and super worth!

Day 3: Copenhagen

Another working day that ended up with a cool experience. Thanks to JEOL we watched a talk by Tom Kristensen and had the opportunity to enter one Le Mans Prototype - good that I am portuguese and so portable version, otherwise not possible to fit in the car!

Le Mans Prototype - Sardine for scale. Thanks to Tom Kristensen for the opportunity!

Day 4: Copenhagen

This was finally the day to visit one palace in Copenhagen and the famous Little Mermaid. We headed to Rosenborg Slot, had a walk in the gardens and then visit the palace. The ticket was 140 DKK but attention if you have the Copenhagen Card it is included.

Tip💡If you plan to visit Amalienborg buy the combined ticket to save money. Combined tickets are valid for 2 days.

Rosenborg Slot Gardens and Painting

(is just me or the painting looks like the inspiration for Lord Farquaad from Shrek?)

After Rosenborg we went walking towards the Little Mermaid, passing through Nyboder and Kastellet.

Nyboder, the yelow repetitive houses. Built by King Christian IV for the men belonging to the Royal Danish Navy and their families. Kastellet is a citadel inside Copenhagen constructed in a pentagen shape with bastions in the corners. In Kastellet you can find a Church and a windmill.

St Alban's Church at Kastellet

After kastellet, we went to finally see the "Little Mermaid". Do not expect a huge statue, it is tiny but symbolic. And if you never read the original "Little Mermaid" fairytale by Hans Christian Andersen I would fully advise you (alert...it is way darker than the Disney version) - check it here.

Den Lille Havfrue - The Little Mermaid

Leaving the statue, we walked towards the "Gefion Fountain". The Gefion or Gefjon is a norse goddess and the fountain represents a mythical story of the creation of Zealand Island where Copenhagen is located. The land was given to Gefjon by the swedish king Gylfi to plow in a night. Gefjon transformed her 4 sons into oxen (represented in the statue), plowed a piece of land out of earth and then planted it into the Danish sea between Scania and Fyn island. The piece of land missing is said to be now the Lake Mälaren in west of Stockholm or Lake Vänern, sweden's largest lake due to the resemblance of shape between the lake and the island of Zealand

Gefion Fountain

Near Gefion Fountain, we picked up an Harbour Bus to Reffen ....don't be mistaken by the name the harbour buses are boats!!! and if you have the city pass they are included.

Reffen is a street food market where you can enjoy an amazing sunset. If you already visited Lisbon it is similar to Lx Factory. Go wild and get some food and drinks. Sit near the water and feel the hygge.

Tip💡Reffen is only open from March to September. If you want to swim go to "La Banchina" first and enjoy the water. If you go during the winter enjoy the sauna!

We ended the day by doing an "harbour cruise" - no we did not pay for the harbour cruises...we simply picked-up the harbour bus back to city centre!

Sunset at Reffen Street Food - Funky Mango Mode

Day 5: Copenhagen

Another working day with a very fancy dinner from the conference part. But, again I cannot leave you without a lunch suggestion near Bella Center: 🍴Nozomi sushi! Good sushi at a very fair price for Copenhagen standards!

Day 6: Copenhagen

On this day, we decided to not go towards the city center but in the other direction. We started by having lunch at 🍴Café Kystens Perle. Did not disappoint at all - I was amazed by the Chévre Chaud dish. Try it!

🍴Café Kystens Perle - Enjoying a drink in Copenhagen's sun

After an amazing lunch, we went walking (or almost rolling) towards Amager Beach. Along the way we stopped at Kastrup Søbad and very bravely tried the water. It was...not cold 🤔!

Amager Beach with Kastrup Søbad on the right

After Amager, we picked up a metro and bus to Dragør.

Dragør...what a gem! Located in the Amager Island and the Old center is very well preserved. The houses are dated from XVIII e XIX and they are yellow painted with thatched roofs. The streets are full of flowers. If you pay attention you will also find mirrors in the windows...so you can check who is coming without opening the window!

Tip💡in the harbour (55°35'37.3"N 12°40'33.3"E) you can find the boat Elisabeth K571. This boat is one the few remaining boat that participated in the transfer of refugees from Denmark (occupied by the Nazis) to Sweden (neutral) in October, 1943. Read more about this at the Travel in Books 📖 - Denmark!

Dragør Old Town

After strolling in the Old Harbour and the Old Town, we went to Dragør Fort to check the Öresundbrücke, the bridge that connects Denmark to Sweden and to go for a swim at Dragør Søbad.

Dragør Søbad

What a day!

Day 7: Copenhagen

The day I was must expecting...yes doing things in the right order is overrated, so on our last day in Copenhagen we went to do a storytelling walk with Rob! Rob was the hidden gem of this day, we met online and Rob kindly offer to go with us into the city and tell us some stories about Copenhagen.

Rob showing us the old houses in Copenhagen and the typical orange painting that oxidizes with time

Unfortunately, I will not tell you the secrets here - but would give you some hints: there are bishops, ladies in the roof, The Beatles, fires, Walt Disney, the Jetsons and many more stories. If you want to know them contact me and I can give you Rob's contact or just go to Rob's page here! Rob´s sharp humour made my day in Copenhagen! And yes, meeting people while travel, specially locals is what makes travelling special. Rob, thank-you for making Denmark remarkable!

Day 8: Copenhagen - Odense - Vejle

After a week, Copenhagen was left behind. We catched a train to Odense and then a bus to Vejle. Since our train was really early in the morning, we stayed at an hotel near the central train station (check the hotel reviews below).

Tip💡the sooner you book, the cheaper the train tickets will be. Book them here. Also try to travel outside rush hours - it will be cheaper. If the train is already expensive, you can try flixbus. The prices are also very good. Attention that the train stops at the center of Odense but Flixbus stops at Parkering Syd (you need to pick up the metro until the center of Odense).

Odense: we stopped at Odense to know more about Hans Christian Andersen history and stories. Odense is all about him. It is a lovely city and, apart from Vejle, my favorite place visited. We left the bags at the train station (there are lockers of several sizes - we paid 5€ and we fitted 2 backpacks and a suitcase), and then we headed to our first stop - The H.C. Andersen's House. The full museum was one of the highlights of this trip along Denmark! I know, it is all about Hans Christian Andersen but, being an adult or a child, we all know the stories and this interactive museum is really amazing! You get to know the author's stories and the fairytale stories.

Part of the Fairy Tales Exhibition at "The H.C. Andersen's House"

At the end of the museum you get to see the house where Hans Christian Andersen was borned and this is a fantastic moment to start the tour: in the steps of Hans Christian Andersen.

Literally follow the steps on the floor - they are all over Odense. You get to know the city and the important places. It is really a fun way to explore Odense! Also, if you want a guide on your phone you can download the Useeum APP and search for Hans Christian Andersen’s Odense.

Some areas where the "Steps" took us

Odense took our heart, but it was time to depart for Vejle. We picked-up our bags and in 40 minutes we were at Vejle.

In Vejle, we stayed at the best hotel of this trip - The Note. I am already adding the name here because it was really, really great, but you can check the review below in 🛌Hotels.

In Vejle we did a City Walk that took us around 2 hours. It is advised by the municipality and you can take the maps here. There is an interactive google maps you can download. The tour will take through the streets of Vejle and most amazingly, it will guide you through some secret spots where you can change the colors of the street lights! 🤭

We had an amazing dinner of Danish Food that felt like home - if you go to Vejle don't miss 🍴Jacobsen. It was suggest by The Note staff for us to try Danish food and it was a really good suggestion!

What a day - my feet were pretty much dead but in the next day Legoland was waiting for us!

Art in Vejle streets

Day 9: Vejle - Billund - Vejle

Finally...LEGOLAND day! I know, not the thing to do for several people but I really enjoy amusement parks so coming to Denmark I could not miss Legoland in Billund.

From Vejle we picked up the 43 bus that took us directly to the Legoland entrance (you have bus every 30 minutes). So you don't actually need to stay in Billund to go to Legoland.

LegoLand: Entrance and Constructions

The lego constructions are incredible, but of course don't expect a calm park. It is packed with families with small kids. We went in September and it was a monday - this is good to avoid the summer crowds and to avoid the weekend.

Tip 💡Legoland after summer is not open everyday! So please buy your tickets beforehand at the Legoland website and check the opening days.

In Billund, you can also find the LegoHouse where without a ticket you can still visit the Lego Square and the RoofTops (15 minutes walking from Legoland or catch the bus 43). Or you can go to the Lalandia, where you can enjoy an indoor water park AquaDome or other activities.

After returning to Vejle - since we did not walk enough (sarcastic laugh), we made a tour of Vejle harbour (also advised by the municipality here) and had dinner at 🍴Enzo's. Vejle restaurants did not disapoint and Enzo's was another gem - do not miss it!

Vejle Architecture and Fjord start

Day 10: Vejle - Aarhus

Vejle was amazing, but it was time to depart for another stop - the second biggest city in Denmark - Aarhus. We catch a train and in less than 1 hour we were at Aarhus main station. We left the bags at the station (as we did in Odense) since our hotel was not in the city center (yup another adventure).

Our first stop in Aarhus was the ARoS - Aarhus Art Museum. It was another good experience museum wise but after The H.C. Andersen's House in Odense that took my heart away, I could be more impressed. For art lovers - it is a must do! I like a lot the rainbow walk, the Ron Mueck– Art and Life (with the giant humans) and the Installation art. The entrance was 180 dkk and since the museum is huge (10 different floors to explore) you can enter and exit several times on the same day.

ARoS - Rainbow Panorama and Installation Art

We walked to Aarhus Street Food - a street food market where you can find a lot of different and cheap options to eat!

After we went to our 🛌hotel that was near the beach and the florest - an amazing spot! Unfortunately our experience was not the greatest for a 4 stars hotel. But still, it was worth just for the amazing location. Check the 🛌hotel reviews at the end of the post. From Aarhus city center to the hotel location we catch a bus, but it is walkable - around 45 minutes walking. Or just do like the Danes and cycle!

Tip💡there is an app to buy the bus tickets, but it does not work with data outside Denmark - so we paid the bus always with money. This, together with the Christiania tour was the only thing we used money, the remaing trip was all made using card!

Tip💡to not pay a lot of taxes, use a Revolut or a Wise card. Easy and simple to use. The app is amazing but it tells right away how much it was spend in your own currency. If you use other type of cards and they ask you to select the type of currency you want to make the transaction - always choose the currency of the country you are visiting! The exchange rate is better.

Tip💡if you need to rent a bike, you can do it via Donkey Republic app.

Aarhus Hotel - the Pool and the beach in front

We left our bags, checked the room and put on our swimming suits! Of course not to go to the sea. My temperature standards did not allow me for that! We went for a walk in the forest and went to check the Marselisborg Deer Park and the Infinite bridge. After this, the city itself did not take my heart away, because I left it here in the middle of nature.

Marselisborg Deer Park

Ah...the swimming suit situation... as you notice by the picture the hotel had a bonus - an amazing pool and sauna with a sea view 👙

Day 11: Aarhus

This day, we went back to Aarhus to check more of the city. We started by going to see a bit of Aarhus history in Den Gamle By. OH! What a surprise! Again Denmark adding a lot of points museum wise. Den Gamle By it is a open air museum, where you can experience time travel walk through Denmark story (1600-1900, 1900-1927, 1950-1974 and 2000-2014). You can enter in the buildings, open drawers, interact with the characters. It is amazing! The ticket was 160 dkk.

To be honest, the first house, since it was the modern area of 2000-2014 seemed like we were invading someone else's house. But then it starts to be fun when you relax and put in your mind that it is a museum but one where you can actually touch things!

Den Gamle By - 1900-1927

We went for lunch at a mall. Please don't judge before you keep reading. This mall has a fantastic rooftop with an amazing view for the city - the Salling Rooftop. We got a mix of Smørrebrød and a few snacks, and just right after we finish the amazing Danish weather decide to grace us with a flood! Not complaining, water is necessary so we just got a few more drinks and waited for the storm to pass.

Between some rain drops, we explored Lille Torv area, Møllestien, Aarhus cathedral and the port area. After this, nature was calling us, so we went back to Marselisborg area.

Day 12: Aarhus - Copenhagen

We could do this the easy way and just catch the train or a bus - but it was way funnier to catch a ferry and sail the north sea. We used Molslinjen. In the same ticket it is included a bus from the city center to the ferry (the bus enters in the ferry), the ferry part until Sjællands Odde and then the bus to Copenhagen (the same that enter in the ferry).

Tip💡we did not do it, but you can use the same company to go from Aarhus to Hillerød or Helsingør or Roskilde, where you can check the palaces/museums and then from there catch a train to Copenhagen!

Arrived to Copenhagen central station, we went to our final hotel in Copenhagen. Also not great but check the review in the end. Not great...but super central. So we went to a bakery to eat the amazing Danish pastries and went to discovery a still very well kept secret of Copenhagen - the university library.

Copenhagen University Library

Passing throught the round tower (worth to check the view), we went for a walk downtown enjoying Copenhagen for the last night. We had dinner at 🍴Café Marzano. A good restaurant but most important outside the crowds. I felt after a few days out of the city, even the Hygge in Copenhagen was running from me. The end of the trip depression was just around the corner.

Day 13: Copenhagen - Lisbon

The flight was late, so I was still in the mode of checking Copenhagen palaces (or in complete denial that our days in Denmark were about to end). We went to Christianborg and Amalienborg. Christianborg we entered the palace and bought the full ticket. You don't really need it. This combination ticket gives you entrance to: the royal reception rooms (really worth it - specially the library and the tapestries in The Great Hall); the royal kitchen (you can see it from outside - just look at the windows); the ruins under the castle (interesting...but not worth the value) and the royal stables (not worth at all, specially after seeing the reception rooms).

After a small run towards Amalienborg to watch the Changing the Guard (at 12:00). If the queen is at the palace, the music band also joins.

We did not enter in Amalienborg, but we did visit the Frederiks Kirke - the marble church. Full of people, but full of silence. A good place to rest for a bit.

It was time to pick or bags and go towards the airport - as said in the begging navigating the public transportation in Copenhagen is amazing and we just needed to catch the metro to the airport. We did a pit stop for lunch at the station before the airport, enjoyed the last cafe terrace for a bit and then walked to the airport.

It was the end of 14 fantastic days in The Land of Hygge - Denmark.

Tip💡we prefered to stay in the city but in my list was to cycle and chase The Six Forgotten Giants. The giants by the artist Thomas Dambo and other artworks are made from waste materials and are spread all over Denmark (and other countries) - so if you miss it in Copenhagen don't worry - check where the other giants are located here.

The world is in your hands - Sardine and a giant

Denmark Summary:

Hotels 🛌

Copenhagen:

• Moxy Copenhagen Sydhavnen

Location is good. Not at the city center but easy to reach by bus, metro and train (in 10 minutes by train you can reach the Central Station). From the 3 hotels I stayed in Copenhagen it was my favorite in terms of price/quality and also the location. You feel you belong to Copenhagen and are not just a tourist. Staff is nice, room is big for Copenhagen standards and have everything you may need! Bicycles available but paid: 150 kr /day

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐4/5 | Location ⭐4/5

• Wakeup Copenhagen, Carsten Niebuhrs Gade

Our choice just for a night and because it was near the central station and our train was really early in the morning. It is a good hotel to stay for a night. Don't expect luxury, the beds are really small to fit 2 people and, although the room was booked for 2 people, it was only prepared for one (the second person needed to collect towels and bedding from a drawer under the bed). So a good low-cost option if you have an early train but would not stay here for a full visit to Copenhagen.

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐3/5 | Location (for the station) ⭐4/5

• Generator Copenhagen

Good location - you can pretty much walk everywhere. But, it is an hostel, so even staying at an individual room with private bathroom, if you want some peace and quiet this is not the place. Also, to store the bags they have some lockers but they are paid and must tell you that they are more expensive then all the lockers we used in the train stations.

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐2/5 | Location ⭐4/5

Vejle:

• The Note

The best hotel in our 13 days. The location is amazing, the decor is really nice, the price/quality we could not request more! But we got more, the staff was incredible. If you need an hotel in Vejle, do not hesitate - The Note is the place.

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐5/5 | Location ⭐5/5

Aarhus:

• Marselis Hotel Aarhus

A disapointment, specially after staying at The Note. The location between the beach and the forest is incredible but the delusion starst as soon as we pass the reception door. No good service for the welcoming, the hotel needs a renovation, the room had a few little spider friends (not a problem for me and I know we were near the forest...but in a 4 stars hotel my expectations were a big higher than the cleaness delivered). The restaurant had really bad reviews and was expensive. Since there are not a lot of options close by we end up ordering food in an app and making a bad experience in a super dinner at the beach enjoying the sunset. Ah, and not all was bad within the hotel ...the pool and sauna facing the beach was great to rest!

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐1/5 | Location (for nature)⭐4/5 | Location (for the city) ⭐2/5

If you have doubts or want to travel to Denmark, I am happy to help to leave your can and explore the world!

By yours: Uncanned Sardine