Italy I - Rome and Vatican - Walking in History

(Para versão em Português mudar o idioma na caixa no canto superior direito de EN para PT se estiveres num PC. No telemóvel clica no símbolo com as 3 barras horizontais no canto superior direito e depois muda de EN para PT na caixa no topo da página)

Facts

About Italy

• 📌Italian Republic

• 🗺️Area: 302.073 km2

• 🧑‍🤝‍🧑Population: 58.968.501 (2024 estimation)

• 🚩Capital: Rome

• 📖Official Language: Italian

• 🏔️Highest elevation: 4.810 m (Monte Bianco)

• 🪙Currency: Euro

About Vatican

• 📌Vatican City State

• 🗺️Area: 0.49 km2

• 🧑‍🤝‍🧑Population: 764 (2023 estimation)

• 🚩Capital: Vatican City

• 📖Official Language: Italian | Other languages: Latin

• 🏔️Highest elevation: 76 m (unnamed location) | Tallest building: 138 m (St. Peter's Basilica)

• 🪙Currency: Euro

Sardine Route - Rome and Vatican StoryTelling Walking

• Time: 5 days

• Transportation: Public transportation, Uber and Private Transfer

• Month: December | Weather:🌤️🌦️ | Temperature: from 4ºC to 15ºC

• Group size: 3

This visit to Rome was another travelling adventure where your sardine went as the guide and storyteller for 3 adventurous friends that by themselves would not leave their Portugal can.

Once upon a time in the Italian capital, your sardine took 3 mackarels to walk on 2000 years ago stories. But first, a bit of history:

Ancient Rome was a civilization that emerged on the Italian Peninsula and expanded from the banks of the Tiber river into a vast empire that dominated much of Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East and created one of the largest empires of antiquity.

The history of Ancient Rome unfolded in three major periods: monarchy (established by the Latin and Etruscan Kings), aristocratic republic, and autocratic empire.

Roman culture was influenced by the Greeks and Etruscans, evident in literature, art, and religion (polytheistic, with gods such as Jupiter, Mars and Venus. Christiany only began to spread during the empire in the 4th century and was officially recongnized by Constantine).

Roman society was hierarchically divided among patricians (from the founding families that monopolized both political and military power), plebeians (that were considered citizens but had political restrictions and fought for rights like the participation in the Senate and magistracies), and slaves (came from Roman conquested lands and work in plantations and mines). There was also an equestrian order, composed by wealthy plebeians that were traders that supplied the army.

During the monarchy (753 BCE–509 BCE), Rome was ruled by kings of Latin and later Etruscan origin, who contributed to the early political and religious structures. The monarchy ended with the deposition of King Tarquin the Proud, leading to the creation of the republic (509 BCE–27 BCE), an aristocratic form of government in which the Senate and magistracies like the Consulate held power.

During the republic (res publica or “public thing”), Rome expanded significantly, facing rivals like Carthage in the Punic Wars. The Roman city-state had the Comitia and the Senate as its central institutions. Finally, the transition to the empire (27 BCE–476 CE), initiated by Augustus (oficially, but some consider it started by Julius Caesar), consolidated Rome as the dominant power in the Mediterranean, culminating in the autocratic rule of the emperors.

The Roman Empire ended in 476 CE when Rome was invaded by barbarian tribes.

Facts about the Ancient Rome

• Rome is known for its impressive infrastructure, including aqueducts that supplied the city with drinking water, and the Colosseum, where famous gladiatorial combats took place.

• The "bread and circuses" policy involved the distribution of free food and entertainment to control the urban plebeians and prevent uprisings.

• During the empire, the Romans adopted a system of imperial succession based on adoption, allowing emperors to choose their heirs from among loyal generals.

• Romance languages, such as Italian, French, and Portuguese, directly derive from Latin, the official language of Rome.

• Roman law continues to influence Western legal systems, serving as the foundation for the legal frameworks of many modern countries.

Day 0: Lisbon - Rome - Villa Borghese, Piazza del Popolo, Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti and Fontana di Trevi

In 03h and 10m we step into Rome. The flight wasn't full and be being at 07am it allowed us to sleep and still arrive for lunch at Italy's capital.

Tip💡By being a special trip, a private transfer was arranged by me from the airport to the city center. However, you can easily reach the center of Rome by using Train "Leonardo Express" (14€ per person) or Bus "Airport Bus Express" (7€ per person) to Termini station. At Termini you can easily walk to some of the main sites or pick the metro or bus (1.5€ per ticket that lasts for 100 minutes and you can pay by tapping your credit card directly at the machine).

Arriving to the center of Rome, we had our 1st challenge - the streets around our hotel were closed since the pope was visiting the Spanish Steps! However, our amazing driver left us as close as possible to our hotel (check hotel review below in 🛌Hotels) .

Our first stop was lunch at 🍴"That's Amore". It was a very good introduction to Italian food with Lasanha, Saltimbocca and Risotto.

We then headed to Villa Borghese - the largest public park in Rome. A vineyard once existed on the site until Cardinal Scipione Borghese decided to transform it into a park. The landscape architect was Domenico Savino da Montepulciano. The garden originally had a geometric design, but natural elements were later introduced. The artificial lake at the center was added in the 18th century. There is an artificial island, on which stands a Ionic Temple dedicated to the God of Healing - Asclepius. The villa also features an amphitheater called Piazza di Siena, the Arch of Septimius Severus, and an 18th-century arch.

Tip💡A fun thing to do while visiting Villa Borghese is to rent an electric Rickshaws at Bici Pincio!

Villa Borghese: Fonte Gaia and Fontana dei Cavalli Marini

Before leaving Villa Borghese, we checked the Terrazza del Pincio and then descend until the Piazza del Popolo, where we could see:

1. Porta Flaminia from 1562 (one of the entrances of Rome in the Aurelian Walls, decorated by Bernini)

2. The Obelisk placed here in 1589 but dating from 1300 BC and originally from Heliopolis, Egypt

3. The two fountains: Fountain of Neptune and the Fountain of the Goddess Roma

4. The symmetrical churches of Santa Maria in Montesanto (on the left, also called Church of the Artists) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (on the right).

5. The Church of Santa Maria del Popolo (built in 1477 to ward off the ghost of Emperor Nero)

Piazza del Popolo: view from Terrazza del Pincio

Are you overwhelmed already? This was just the beggining of 5 days in the capital of the Roman Empire.

We then headed to the Spanish Steps or Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti. They are composed by 139 steps (built between 1723 and 1726) that connect Piazza di Spagna (where the spanish embassy used to be) to Piazza dei Monti (which was under the patronage of the Bourbon French Kings). The stairs symbolized peace between France and Spain.

In the square (Piazza di Spagna at the bottom), there is the Fontana della Barcaccia, designed and built by Bernini in 1598. In the center of the fountain, there is a statue of a boat. The boat represented a royal vessel that was stranded in the square when the Tiber River flooded that same year.

Streets near the Spanish Steps and the Spanish Steps in the middle picture

Before finishing the day we headed to the iconic Fontana di Trevi. We catched the Jubilee 2025 renovations, however it is still a masterpiece.

The fountain was constructed in in 1743 and it is the largest Baroque Fountain ever constructed. Trevi the name comes from the Latin word Trivium, since the fountain is located at the junction of three streets. It is the terminal point of Aqua Virgo, an aqueduct constructed during the reign of Emperor Augustus in 19 BC.

Fontana di Trevi

The figure at the center depicts the Ocean in a chariot drawn by two horses, with Tritons riding each horse. In the side there is the statues of Abundance (on the left) and Health (on the right).

⛲Out of curiosity by the 4th century, there were already 1,352 fountains in Rome.

🍴For dinner we went to La Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi, where we got an amazing cheese and sausage board with, of course, an amazing wine

Cheese and Sausage board from La Prosciutteria Cantina dei Papi

Day 1: Rome - Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Campo di Fiori and Piazza Venezzia

We started early the day. On our way to our first visit we passed at Piazza Colonna, where we could see the Column of Marcus Aurelius (193 AD), and we also checked the Tempio di Adriano, a Roman temple from 145 AD with 11 Corinthian columns, which now form the facade of the Rome Stock Exchange.

Then it was time for our first visit - The church Sant'Ignazio di Loyola. The church was built in 1626, on the same site as the Roman College, a Jesuit educational institute founded by Ignatius of Loyola in 1551. I must confess, that while we where going to the hotel after dinner on the first day, we passed in this church and entered. There was music playing, everyone was silent and the atmosphere was incredible - I felt peace and I am not a religious person. It was so incredible that we come back during the morning next day. The ceiling in Sant'Ignazio de Loyola, painted by Andrea del Pozzo, and probably because my expectations for the Sistine Chapel were super high, amazed me more because I was not expecting it.

Ceiling of Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola

After leaving the church, we headed to the Pantheon. The Pantheon is a temple commissioned by Emperor Hadrian, dedicated to all the Roman gods. It replaced the temple of Marcus Agrippa, which was destroyed by fire. The architecture of the Pantheon have been admired due to its milimeter perfect architecture - it measures 43.3 meters in height and diameter. The facade have a triangular pediment, supported by columns arranged in three rows. The original geometric marble flooring still exists and its dome is larger than the dome of St. Peter's Basilica.

Tip💡You can buy tickets online using the App Musei Italiani. However, check the line to buy the tickets on site in cash. There was no one there and entered right away.

Pantheon - Rome. View from the exterior facade

Piazza Navonna and Campo di Fiori were our next stops. But since we are in Rome, along the way we stopped at Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi and Basilica of Sant’Agostino.

San Luigi dei Francesi is dedicated to the patron saints of France: Virgin Mary, Dionysius the Areopagite and King Louis IX of France and it is the national church in Rome of France. In the interior you can find the Contarelli Chapel that contains three Caravaggio paintings about the life of Saint Matthew: on the left "The Calling of Saint Matthew"; above the altar "The Inspiration of Saint Matthew"; on the right "The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew". If you want to know more about the church there is a free audio-guide that you can scan the qrcode at the entrance. Basilica of Sant'Agostino (1483), just around the corner, it is also worth a visit and also contains art of Caravaggio "Madonna di Loreto" and Raphael "Prophet Isaiah".

On the left - Basilica of Sant'Agostino | On the right - Chiesa de San Luigi dei Francesi

Now time to visit Piazza Navona. Built in the 15th century as a marketplace and a venue for special events. It was paved over the ancient Stadium of Domitian, which was called Circus Agonalis. A representation can be seen near the Via Agonale entrance where part of the structure is still present. The main attraction of the square is the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (1651). The name comes from the figures at its base, which represent the four rivers: the Nile, the Danube, the Ganges, and the Río de la Plata (between Argentina and Uruguay – the widest river in the world). The obelisk on the fountain originally stood in the Circus of Maxentius. There are two other fountains in the square: The Fontana del Nettuno (1576), The Fontana del Moro designed by Bernini in the 17th century and is adorned with a Moor and a dolphin. The male mermaids, or Tritons, are later additions.

In front of the Fountain of the Four Rivers is the Church of Santa Ines in Agony (an example of Baroque architecture in Rome). Next to the church is the Palazzo Pamphili (the Brazilian Embassy).

Tip💡Before leaving Piazza Navonna, it is worth to make a pit stop at Tre Scalini to have a little treat - Tartufo, a classic Roman dessert.

The Fontana del Moro by Bernini - Piazza Navona

Leaving Piazza Navonna towards Campo di Fiori, we stop at Basilica di Sant'Andrea della Valle - also worth a visit and checking the amazing painted celling.

In Campo de Fiori, arriving before lunch let us see the market. The name "Floor Field" of this Piazza, refers to a flowery field that existed here before the square was paved in 1456. The square was used for regular public executions, including Giordano Bruno, an italian philosopher accused of heresy and burned in 1600. In his honour, a statue is now located at the center of the square.

Market at Campo de Fiori

We had lunch at🍴Osteria da Fortunata. Some saying it is a tourist trap, others saying it is amazing. I must tell it was a good experience overall and I do not regret it - the pasta and the eggplant parmesan were good, it was cool to see the production of fresh pasta and the price was the same as many others places in central Rome (around 20€ per person).

Belly full - ready for the next stop at Piazza Venezia. Piazza Venezia is located right in the center of Rome, where several known streets converge (Via dei Fori Imperiali, Via del Corso). The square lies at the foot of Capitoline Hill and it is flanked by important buildings, including the Palazzo Venezia, which was built by a decree of Cardinal Venezia, and from which the square gets its name. Built in 1464, the palace was the residence of Pope Paul IV; successive popes lived there until Pope Pius IV. Other buildings in the square include the Assicurazioni Generali building, the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, the Palazzo Bonaparte (residence of Napoleon’s mother), the Palazzo delle Aste, and the Church of San Marco (1336).

We climbed the stairs of Monument to Victor Emmanuel, also known as the Altare della Patria, Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele, Altar of the Fatherland, or simply Il Vittoriano. Locals have nicknamed the monument the "typewriter," the "wedding cake," and other names. The monument in Piazza Venezia inaugurated in 1935, houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and an eternal flame. It was erected after World War I in honor of those who lost their lives in battle.The official monument name cames in honor of the first king of the unified Italy. The monument itself is notable not for its beauty, but for its grandeur and also because during the construction there were expropriations and demolition of important buildings, making it a controverse monument. During the fascist period, it was used as a background for propaganda and being still now erroneously consider a monument that celebrates that dark period of Italy's history.

Even so, the it is monumental and climbing up, we can get an amazing view of Rome and the Via dei Fori Imperiali with the Colosseum at the end. Worth the stairs! If you want to rest a bit there is also a cafe in the terrace with a great view.

Monument to Victor Emmanuel

Out of curiosity, the monument represents an unified Italy and it as the borders of the territory marked by two fountains at the bottom. The fountains represent the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Adriatic Sea. There is also symbols representing the Italian regions at the bottom of the central statue. If you want to read more - check the blog: Lovely Stay in Rome.

View of Via dei Fori Imperiali with the Colosseum from the terrace at Monument to Victor Emmanuel

To end the day we still climb up the Capitoline Hill to Piazza del Campidoglio. Here, we found one amazing spot to check the Roman Forum and also saw at the center of the square a statue of Marcus Aurelius and a statue from the Lupa Capitolina with Romulus and Remus.

Roman Forum

Before we continue on our story it is important to talk about The Legend of Romulus and Remus. Rome was founded on April 21, 753 BC, according to Roman mythology, by the twin brothers Romulus and Remus, descendants of the god Mars (known in Greek mythology as Ares) and Rhea, a mortal daughter of Numitor, the king of Alba Longa. The brothers were suckled by a she-wolf (Lupa Capitolina).

The myth tells that Romulus and Remus were thrown into the river to drown. However, they survived and were nurtured by the she-wolf. Later, they were adopted by a shepherd.As adults, Remus quarreled with their adoptive father and was imprisoned by his great-uncle, who tried to kill him. Romulus rescued his brother and restored the throne to their grandfather. The brothers set out to found a new city, but they disagreed on the location. Romulus wanted it on the Palatine Hill, and Remus on the Aventine Hill.

To settle the dispute, they waited for a sign from the gods and observed the birds. Romulus saw 12 birds on the Palatine Hill, and Remus saw 6 on the Aventine Hill. Romulus won the dispute and killed Remus. Rome was founded on that day – April 23, 753 BC – on the Palatine Hill.

Lupa Capitolina with Romulus and Remus

Image Source: https://pxhere.com/en/photo/1187561

We ended our day by passing in the Mamertium, where Saint Peter and Saint Paul were imprisioned, and by the Mercati di Traiano, before heading to Trastevere to have dinner. In our way we passed by the Teatro di Marcello, a structure similar to the Colosseum, construction began under Julius Caesar and was completed under Augustus in 17 AD.

In Trastevere we wander around and end up having dinner at 🍴Striscia La Pizza. Most tell that not only the pizzas are great (we got a pizza with burrata and pistachio) but the chat we had with the owner was also great! Amazing place and a full not miss in Trastevere.

On our way back to the Hotel - Rome at Night

Day 2: Vatican - Museum of Vatican, Basilica di San Pietro | Rome - Castel Sant'Angelo

Time for a new country! Everyone makes this joke when in Rome and about to visit Vatican right? 😅

Vatican or Vatican City, officially the Vatican City State, is the headquarters of the Catholic Church and a sovereign city-state. It is the smallest state in the world.

The Vatican has existed since 1929 and is separate from the Holy See. Official government documents of the Vatican are issued in Italian, while official documents of the Holy See are mostly issued in Latin.

It is an ecclesiastical or theocratic-monarchical state, governed by the Bishop of Rome, the Pope, who has his official residence in the Apostolic Palace.

Vatican Hill is located in the region of Rome but is not part of the seven hills of Rome. Before Christian Rome, it was the site of oracles (people who receive and transmit the word of the gods). Vaticanus or Vagitanus was an Etruscan god (the people who lived in this region of Italy). This god "opened the mouth of the newborn so they could give their first cry or shout."

Starting our visit to Vatican by going to the Vatican Museum. Early birds! We got tickets (general entrance with audio-guide) for 08:00. Most tell, that I was a skeptical with the crowds since I am really a desert person. But, what a surprise, beginning of December at 08:00 sounds like an amazing time to visit the museum. We went to rooms just for us (and without the need to spend a fortune in the guided visit to "open the museum").

The first Vatican museum was founded by Pope Julius III in the 16th century. The Vatican Museums are a series of galleries that include the Sistine Chapel, the Laocoön, Raphael's Transfiguration, Caravaggio's Deposition, the Apollo of Belvedere, and Leonardo da Vinci's Saint Jerome.

Vatican Museum: Bramante Staircase; Stanze di Raffaello; Galleria dei Candelabro; Galleria delle Carte Geografiche

The Sistine Chapel is Michelangelo's most famous work. The chapel was inaugurated in 1483. The ceiling was painted with Michelangelo lying on his back. The chapel is decorated with 9 scenes from the Book of Genesis, the most iconic being the painting of God touching Adam. In the corners, there are 7 prophets and 5 sibyls (oracle women). The corners depict the salvation of the Israelites. In this chapel, the election of the new pope takes place by the College of Cardinals.

Saint Peter's Basilica seen from the Vatican Museum gardens

Next stop was, of course, the Saint Peter's Basilica. We went from the Museum to Saint Peter's Square. This square was designed by Bernini in a trapezoidal shape, to overcome design challenges caused by the buildings surrounding the square. It is surrounded by 284 Doric columns, each 13 meters tall. On the ground, a red porphyry stone marks the spot where Pope John Paul II was shot in 1981 and, in the center of the square, you can see an Egyptian obelisk (brought from Egypt (Heliopolis) by Caligula). The area became the site of the martyrdom of many Christians after the great fire of Rome in 64. Tradition says that St. Peter was crucified here upside down (because he felt unworthy to die in the same way as Jesus on the cross).

For the Basilica, we waited in line to pass the security checks (it was quick and the line was small) but be aware that when we left the Basilica around noon, the line had double in size.

Saint Peter's Basilica is the center of the Catholic Church. It is believed that Staint Peter was buried at this location in the year 64. Saint Peter is considered the first pope.

Tip💡You can climb to the dome, but there are 491 steps. Note that even if you take the elevator, there are still 320 steps to climb at the end. Although entrance at the Basilica is free, the dome requires a separate payed ticket.

The Basilica is impressive, although I most say that for me all the Vatican had a bitter sweet taste. So many treasures, so many gold, and even so, so many people suffering around the world that believes in the Catholic church (or others) and get no help. Also so many people that donate to the church. Maybe one day I can understand this, but for now all of this luxury, made me really uncomfortable.

Saint Peters Basilica Altar and Baldachin over the Tomb of Saint Peter and under the dome of the Basilica

For me, after a quick visit and of course the observation of the Pièta by Michelangelo it was time to leave to Italy again. We followed the Via della Conciliazione until we reached Castel Sant'Angelo.

Built between 130 and 139 AD, the castle was commissioned by Emperor Hadrian as a tomb for himself and his successors. During the German invasions, it became a fortress and later a prison. The name of the castle comes from the statue of an angel that replaced the original statue of Emperor Hadrian.

The most beautiful thing about the castel is the view from the terrace. You can see the Sant'Angelo Bridge, with its 10 angels designed by Bernini and Saint Peters Basilica, along with Rome and all the domes that compose the skyline of Rome.

Skyline of Rome seen from the Castel of Sant'Angelo

After the Castel we wander in the streets of Rome until our hotel and we got tiramisu for dinner...because why not!

Saint Peter's Basilica seen from the Ponte Humberto I

Day 3: Rome - Colosseum, Foro Romano and Palatine Hill

Another early day and finally the day to visit one of the 7 wonders of the world - The Colosseum! To avoid crows, we went to the colosseum in the opening at 08:30. Also, we choose the visit on a Wednesday that its the day of the papal audience at the Vatican and so a lot of people are at the Vatican and not around the Colosseum.

The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in Rome. It was built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 AD and inaugurated in 80 AD during the reign of Emperor Titus. It was used for gladiator fights, bullfights, chariot races, and various other public entertainment events. Naval battles were reenacted with special effects. Simulated hunts involved live animals; condemned individuals were often thrown to the animals as food.

Rome had a class system, and there were 5 levels of seating according to social status. The Colosseum remained in use until 404 AD, when the Orthodox Christian Emperor Theodosius banned paganism and other customs. Afterward, the Visigoths looted Rome, and the amphitheater fell into disrepair. Later, parts of it were taken for use in new buildings. Repairs were made, but there were also earthquakes and more looting. Eventually, the Colosseum was neglected and gradually dismantled, stone by stone. Even so, it remains impressive!

Colosseum Outside

Colosseum - Inside

Tip💡There are a lot of ticket types to visit the Colosseum. First question - where to buy? I always advise to buy directly in the official website here. Second question - which ticket shoudl I buy? It depends on what you are interested in see. There are tickets for:

1) Arena - in the photo you can see the people standing in the Arena platform. For me not worth it since with the general ticket you get exactly the same view from the other side;

2) Underground - normally all sold out. It allows to visit the central area of the Colosseum where the animals, gladiators and tools were stored. It includes a guided visit. In our case, the group did not speak english or italian, so not worth it;

3) Attic - You can get an elevator and go to the top floor of the Colosseum. The view is beautiful but if you are interested in seeing the Colosseum itself the general ticket will be sufficient. Also remember the top places were the ones with less visibility - so maybe stay down and enjoy;

4) General admission - You go around the Colosseum, and get the chance to go to several different levels. The tickets we got, and they were more than ok!

Tip💡Download the App MyColosseum and you will get an audioguide that automatically starts when you reach certain areas of the Colosseum. Totally worth it and free ;)

After leaving the Colosseum, it was time to visit the Roman Forum.

The Imperial Forums, or Fori Imperiali, were the center of political and religious lif in Ancient Rome. They consisted of a series of public squares surrounded by buildings, each created by a different emperor to showcase their wealth, power, and superiority. The buildings in this area were constructed between 46 BC and 113 AD, and included temples, libraries, courts, and places of education. Julius Caesar initiated the construction of the new Imperial Forums in an effort to alleviate overcrowding in the old Roman Forum (which is a separate site).

Much of the ancient architecture was lost when Mussolini decided to connect the Colosseum to Piazza Venezia by building Via dei Imperiali through the forums. What remains of the site can be seen on both sides of this avenue.

Roman Forum seen from Palatine Hill

The Palatine Hill is one of the seven ancient hills of Rome (founded in the 18th century BC) and the site chosen by Romulus, the founder of Rome, to build his new city. It is the hill where the palaces that gave the hill its name – Palatine Hill – were located.

Tip💡Download the app Y&Co and have a guided audio-tour of the Roman Forum. Like the Colosseum app it automatically starts when you reach an area.

We exit the Roman Forum and add lunch at I Vaccinari. The restaurant was super nice, the pizzas were good and huge! You can easily divide one, same with pasta ;)

We headed towards the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore. Before reaching, we did a small detour to check the Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli and see the statue Moises by Michelangelo and the chains of Saint Peter.

Santa Maria Maggiore, located on the Esquiline Hill, was built on the remains of ancient structures, and archaeological excavations have uncovered items such as a 2nd/3rd-century calendar and the ancient Roman walls. It is magnificient and worth a visit!

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Time to heads towards the hotel, but still with time to pass in Piazza della Repubblica with the Fontana delle Naiadi (that was a scandal when inaugurated due to the position of the naked female statues) and check the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri.

Day 4: Rome - Caracalla Thermal Baths, Circus Maximus and Trastevere

Last day in Rome, but a lot of time to enjoy! We started by visiting the Caracalla Thermal Baths and the Circus Maximus.

The Caracalla baths were the largest Roman public baths (thermae) and were built between 212 AD and 216 AD. They were constructed during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, that was also known as Caracalla, due to the tunic he wore. The baths remained in operation for over 300 years, during a time when the city had more than 50 public baths, which were used in place of private bathrooms. The baths served a social function, in addition to allowing citizens to wash off the dust of everyday life. The bathing process was a ritual that began with a hot bath in the caldarium, followed by a warm bath in the tepidarium, a cold bath in the frigidarium, and finally a relaxing dip in the natatio or open-air swimming pool, followed by a massage or scrubbing with scented cloths.

The baths featured marble seating, mosaics on the walls and floors, fountains, statues of marble and bronze, and the walls were covered with polychrome marble and tile mosaics. Today, only the ruins remain, as the baths suffered from Goth incursions, earthquakes, and parts of the structure were removed to be used in other Roman buildings. Visitors can still get an idea of the scale and opulence of the baths from the imposing red brick walls, large arches, remaining mosaic floors, and granite columns.

Near the Caracalla baths, is located the Circus Maximus that was the first and largest arena/stadium in Ancient Rome. The stadium was built in the valley between the Palatine and Aventine hills (the two hills that Romulus and Remus discussed to be the center of Rome) and could accommodate an audience of up to 250,000 people.

With was now time to advance and finally visit the Aventine hill. We headed to Giardino degli Aranci.

View from Terrazza Belvedere Aventino in Giardino degli Aranci

It is believed that the Giardino degli Aranci was created when Saint Dominic brought an orange tree from his homeland, Spain, and planted it in the garden of the adjacent Savelli Castle, which housed a monastery. The sapling flourished, and more orange trees were planted. It is also believed that Saint Catherine of Siena used the oranges from the tree to make candied fruit for Pope Urban VI. The monastery’s garden was transformed into the park we know today when it was redesigned by Raffaele de Vico in 1932.

Near the garden, we headed to find the keyhole secret and for that we peek through the keyhole of the Military Order of Malta. This keyhole offers a perfectly framed view of St. Peter's Basilica, symbolizing the intricate relationship between the Sovereign Military Order of Malta and the Vatican City.

We then descend the Aventine hill. The idea was to head towards Trastevere to have lunch, but it was still early so we did a detour to check the Colossus of Constantine.

The Colossus of Constantine - Sardine for scale

A quick stop to rest and then Trastevere was waiting for us. In Trastevere we had lunch at Tonnarello. And we finalize our adventure in Rome with Aperol Spritz, meatballs and Cacio&Pepe pasta🍴

Tip 💡If you are in Rome on a Sunday, along the walk towards Trastevere do not miss the largest open-air flea market at Porta Portese.

Time to head home. Thank-you Rome for this trip back in time and thank-you to the 3 intrepid visitors that went with me.

My three sardines in Rome

Rome Summary:

Hotel 🛌

• Charme Spagna Boutique Hotel

Location is good - between the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. Possible to walk everywhere (Colosseum 30 minutes walking/ Trevi Fountain 5 minute walking/ 5 minutes walking/ Piazza Navona 14 minutes walking). The rooms are small, but confortable, clean and well decorated. The staff is incredible - explained everything, were super helpful and always gave us a warm welcome after the long walkings in Rome. Breakfast is more than enough although there are limited choices. There is a cute interior patio to have breakfast.

From a 3 stars hotel, it was everything you could ask for and I happily recommend it! Please note that the hotel is located on the 1st floor but there is a very small elevator if you need.

Sardine Evaluation: Price/Quality ⭐5/5 | Location ⭐4/5

If you have doubts or want to travel to Rome, I am happy to help to leave your can and explore the world!

By yours: Uncanned Sardine